Monday, September 11, 2006

Dubrovnik

Have been off the boat since yesterday morning but everything is still swaying, I feel most peculiar. We had a truly relaxing time on the cruise and saw some spectacular islands and seascapes. Each island seems to have its own identity whilst remaining proudly Croatian. We had a mixed bunch of ages, nationalities and personalities on board and had great fun with them. Mornings were spent lazing on deck whilst we sailed, actually motored, to a swimming cove where we all frolicked until Nikita, our handsome and informative first mate and general dogsbody, would ring the lunch bell. Homecooked meals were the order of the day eg roasts, rissoles, soup and fruit for desert. Afternoons were spent snoozing on bunk or sunlounge as we travelled to our port for the night. Then there was time to explore islands such as Mljet (where we hired bikes to cycle around 2 salt lakes before a swim in the crystal waters); Korčula (where we were part of an amazing sea battle); Hvar (where we climbed many stairs to the ancient citadel) and a few others including some quiet little ports. We ate mostly seafood at local restaurants and were served by friendly Croatians. A highly recommended introduction to this beautiful part of the world, marred only by a couple of noisy nights from one of our sister ships (four or five boats would raft up at night when in port). Unfortunately these were Australian yobbos.
Dubrovnik is as beautiful as people say. We have just completed a walking tour about its history which will allow us to go back and visit places more thoroughly. The old walled part of town is white and bright and neat with its limestone barouque buildings and shiny marbled streets. Of course, there have been many renovations and restorations over time due to a major earthquake in 1667 as well as the disgraceful bombardment of 1991. There are pockets of the original Gothic and Renaissance architecture. It is said that Dubrovnik is the secondbest place in the world, not excluding your place of birth, and if you happen to be born in Dubrovnik, you are doubly blessed! I am thinking this is true!
We are lucky to have four days here to explore the town, then 2 days in Split, back to Rome and Home to Australia!

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Croatian Cruisin´

Two days into the cruise and it is so beautiful. After saying a teary farewell to my villa guests, another mammoth mission finally landed us in Croatia in Dubrovnik. Were able to store the big reds and had a quick look at the old city of Dubrovnik, in some ways similar to the fortified villages of Italy but built from a marble like stone , in fact the streets are a little slippery from centuries of wear. The sunlight on this light stone and the abundent red tiled rooves make this a awesome sight. Had a brainstorm and stored the big reds and repacked the basics and as a result our boat the Kapetan Bota is still afloat. a mixed group on the boat mostly couples and English speaking. In the mornings, we cruise through thesebeautiful islands and afternoon spent at an island, then moor for the night. In Korčula at present, birthplace of Marco Polo and ther is great celebration in the streets as we have just been part of the reenacment of the war between Venice and Genoa. Curfew calls,signing off, Diana

Sunday, September 03, 2006

from the shores of Croatia

This is where the blog becomes Diana in Croatia, because I have just disembarked from the overnight ferry from Italy. Greta and I do not board our ˝sailing ship˝ unti midday so it was fortuitous that there is this internet cafe near the port. Even though Francine is currently flying one of my bags back to Aus, the big reds are still unweildly so we can´t explore too much yet.
My birthday celebrations at the villa outside Cortona were fantastic and it was so good to spend it with such a lively crowd! Bryan as the token male became known around Tuscany as the man with ˝tout le donnas˝ (all the ladies) so we coined the name Bryan and the Donnas. We had a seven seater Fiat in which we ventured forth to various locations, including Lake Trasimeno, Assissi (beautifil) and Arezzo as well as up the hill to Cortona. Waking in the morning and flinging the window open to view the grape and olive fields and see the sun illuminating the ancient buildings of Cortona is a sight I will never forget. Great fun was had with Tuscan degustations, many tastings of the local wines, and numerous poolside cocktails. Turning that special age didn´t hurt at all!

Monday, August 28, 2006

Cortona

Apologies for long time no blog! Had to do Paris, Florence, shoes and poor internet service.
Very hung over from my party last night. Banquet (grande degustation) prepared by all my guests under culinary direction of the bellissimo Belinda. Even had my own special chair complete with seniors balloons, thanks so much bubbles girls!!!! Ate, drank, danced, drank, laughed, drank! Ended up having no family members as Jon didn't quite make the flight, deciding to have eye surgery instead. However he manages to keep us amused by telephone. Good luck with your convalescence in Tasmania. You really wouldn't like the blue sky and perfecto weather here anyway.
La Poventa is a very photogenic villa with an unexpected quaintness and obligatory plumbing issues. Francine and Greta have to sleep in the maid's quarters which they continue to whinge about. My room however is palatial and very ShirleyValentine. The pool with the Roman steps and the views of Cortona is a perfect back drop for an afternoon aperitiff and D&M's, the subjects of which often send Bryan (our token male by default) scurrying for cover in the pretense of getting another jug of cocktails. Today we have ventured out to the medieval hill town of Cortona. We tried this yesterday but we could not deposit the Fiat mini bus in any appropriate parking space, and having already had an altercation with the Polizia trying to leave Firenze, we decided to play it safe and take the bus. If Interpol contact you, you no nothing!!!
Mucho Gracie to all of you who sent birthday wishes. I am no longer in denial and admit that I am really fifty. So many stories to relate about Paris and Florence but the bus awaits as does siesta. Ciao, Diana

Monday, August 21, 2006

Driving through France

We were on the road for a week in a trusty little Citroen and travelled through the middle of France, keeping to the D roads and passing in and out of quaint villages. Starting off from Menton was a challenge as it was the first time we had driven on the wrong side of the road - well, not exactly, but you don't count a couple of misdemeanors in Brisbane do you? Going around roundabouts the wrong way is a strange feeling, but I must admit the French handle them much better than most Australians. We travelled at first on the motorway, mostly through tunnels at first, passing Nice and other centres along the Cote d'Azure experiencing all the toll roads and bottlenecks ( "bouchons" are quite frequent on these super highways, but hey it is August when the whole country goes on holiday) and finally stopping at a most beatiful village where we found the best patisserie. We thought it would be a lovely place to stay, but having no booking proved a problem, so we began the ring around to find a bed for the night, finally getting into a hotel in Nimes. My turn to drive and Greta's to navigate. Fine until we got to Nimes and spend ages driving around in circles down narrow one way streets, into bus lanes, hopelessly lost as it seems the only place you can get a good map of a place is in the place itself! After a few stressfull moments and more than a few inappropriate words, we rang a taxi and one of us followed in the car to our hotel where, luckily, they hadn't given away our room! Luck stayed with us as we took their reccommendation of a restaurant and had the most beatiful French Provencal meal in an equally beautiful square. Travel seems to be like that - one moment it,s hell and the next you are in paradise.
Things slowed down after Nimes as we took the D roads which are well maintained and signed dual carriageways. We traversed the Mastiff Central and as we got higher, experienced our first cold weather as the temperatures dropped to 14°. However the countryside was all we'd hoped for - so typical of the scenes we all know. We would ring ahead ( earlier now as nothing much is open for about 3 hours in the middle of the day) and meander to little villages where we would overnight and partake of the local menu - only one mistake here when Greta ordered quennelles. In my perfect French I had enquired "Est-ce que boeuf?" Is it beef. The cranky waitress said "Oui." Out came some white sausage like things floating in yellow liquid appearing as though it may just be some unknown entrails. Later the good waitress said it was fish. We were later to be rewarded, after the worst meal in the prettiest village, we had the best meal in the ugliest village.
We visited a medieval castle (chateaux and castles are a dime a dozen along those roads) and after another tricky navigation into Blois, visited the Chateau Blois as well, arriving just in time for the English version of the Son et Lumiere presentation which was spectacular.
Returning the car was another fretfull mission as we had decided to drop it off in Orleans rather than drive into Paris. Orleans Gare had been dug up with no vehicle access; so we had to try to find a non existant Avis office; were finally directed to a drop off place; after a few more wrong turns were told by several of the people in that street that the car would be clamped if we left it there; found a dodgy park in the middle of what seemed to be a traffic island; rang the Avis rep who said "no probleme"; hotfooted it to the station (as much as one can with the two "big reds" as our suitcases have become affectionately known) and had five minutes to buy a ticket and board a train to Paris; which we did;

Friday, August 11, 2006

Monte Carlo

Bonjour mes amis,
Last day in Menton, we are slightly nervous about driving but tomorrow will pick up a car and trvel through France to Paris. We are lucky to be in Menton during their annual music festival and heard a trio (violin, piano and cello) play in a beautiful old church in the vieux village (old part of town) the other night. It was especially lovely to be in such a venue with all the saints overlooking us and the faint sound of seagulls echoing through whatever you call that hole in the top of churches. We are off to listen to some jazz this afternoon in one of Menton's many gardens. Popped over to Monaco the other evening to see how the rich people. Sat in the Cafe du Paris where a ham sandwich costs 12 euro, sipped on a - euro glass of wine and watched the amazing procession of poseurs walking and driving by. Lots of Ferraris (common) a couple of beautiful Bentleys, one Jaguar and lots of Mercs and BMWs. The occasional tourist slips into the parade and we are sure our taxi fare to the station later that night include a charge for doing the circuit! Went into the pleb part of the casino which was interesant, no high rollers but some low fliers. Must partake of the beach here for the last time.
Diana

Monday, August 07, 2006

Menton

Pretty Pastel Menton! So close to Italy and yet so Frenchy, so chic! Even the pigeons here are cleaner and more stylish. Staying in ma frere Jonathan's "leetle" appartment. The verandah overlooks a lovely garden area with fountains,green grass , pathways and ponds, which is shared by the surrounding buildings. These are 6 or 7 stories high, marshmallow coloured with long shuttered windows with those little wrought iron railings to stop one falling out the door. Music is wafting up the avenue from speakers high on the street lamps - it is the menton music festival and tomorrow we are hoping to catch a recital or two. The drivers are courteous and even stop at the zebra crossings, as do we, having attained our initial pedestrian training in Rome! The beach, so civilised, is free... and we even found some sand, and it was white (probably imported!) Still amajor effort to actually get into the water as the pebbles are big and difficult to manage. Especially with grace and dignity. And one doesn't really want to buy a PLASTIC pair of shoes for the purpose - not when there's so many more shoes to be had. It is amazing how exciting the simplest things become: like TV that speaks English, although CNN brings the realisation that warfare and suffering continues as I loll about studying beach culture. Quite different from watching Desperate Housewives in Italian; also washing machine (there's one here in the basement) Oh la la! Its a pleasant change to handwashing and hanging one's smalls out the window - not allowed here, naturellement! And Hairdressers and Products. We are trying hard to change our well practised si, gracie and buongiorno to oui, merci et bonjour.
bonjour for now
Diana